Assembly instructions

Storage prior to installation

The plastic film covering the worktop helps protect against moisture ingress and drying out. If the film is intact, the worktop can be stored for a short period in an unheated room. Protection from rain or other form of water is, however, vital. If the worktop has been unwrapped, it must be stored in a room with normal indoor climate. It is important that the worktop does not become skew or warped and that air is allowed to circulate freely on both sides. For instance the worktop can be stored flat on battens. If several worktops are laid on top of each other, there must be a minimum of 50mm air space between layers.


Cut the worktop to fit in the appropriate place. Wood is a living material that expands and contracts depending on humidity. Please bear in mind that all cut-outs for sinks and pipes must be at least 10mm bigger than the object the hole is intended for. End grain is particularly in danger of cracking, so avoid cutting holes less than 100mm from the ends of the worktop. When butt-jointing two worktops (at right angles), the joint must be made with loose splines and two special fittings that are milled into the underside. It is recommended to cut a 6mm broad and 15mm deep groove in both worktops and use a 6mm plywood feather.

Fittings and plywood can be bought at a DIY store or timber merchant. Other jointing techniques than the one prescribed are not recommended.
When the worktop has been fitted it should be sanded with fine-grain sandpaper (150 grit). Always remember to smooth along the grain. After rubbing down, all dust is removed with a brush and vacuum cleaner.


Allow one week for treatment before installation. All sides and edges must be treated after finishing with worktop oil until the surface is saturated (4-8 times). Follow the directions for use supplied with the oil closely. Please be aware that oily rags can self ignite and ought therefore be kept in an airtight can or similar. It is important to treat the underside in the same way as the upper surface. If this is not done, the two sides will work differently with the risk of cupping and cracking. It is particularly important to ensure that ends and cut-outs be saturated with oil. This is because end grain absorbs considerably more oil and ends are especially vulnerable to cracking. ScandiWood accept no responsibility for untreated worktops or surfaces that have been treated with products other than worktop oil.


First check that the kitchen units on to which the worktop is to be fitted are completely level. A damp proof membrane is required on the underside of the worktop above dishwashers etc. Don’t forget to fit any profiles supplied with the dishwasher intended to conduct away heat and moisture. Worktops must always be fitted with a minimum gap of 5mm from walls.

When jointing two worktops at right angles, first assemble the worktop with feathers and check that the two edges fit perfectly. Then separate the two sections 4-5mm apart and fill up the gap with clear silicone. The sections can then be tightened with the clamps. In doing so, the silicone is pressed partly into the wood and partly out of the joint. Excess silicone is removed immediately as described in the directions for use. It is important to tighten the fixing brackets after installation. It may therefore be necessary to drill holes in the kitchen units under the joints.

Firmly screw the worktop to the kitchen units or to the supports at the front, in the middle and at the rear edge.   The lengthwise distance between the screws should not exceed 40cm.

If there is a fixed top in the kitchen units use 4mm timber spacers to permit the free circulation of air. The spacers are positioned crosswise where the worktop is to be secured with screws. Be sure to place spacers around sinks and other large cutouts. The slots through the top of the units and spacers must be oblong in shape (min. 10mm) to allow cross-grain movement in the worktop. You could choose to let the rearmost holes remain round so the worktop only moves forwards, or alternatively you can drill round holes at the front edge, so the worktop can only move towards the rear. The screws should therefore be placed in the centre of the oblong slots. Screw holes must be pre-drilled. Use washers with the screws. The screws must not be tightened so securely that the worktop is prevented from moving freely.

If the worktop does not have a fixed work surface, it can be fitted by using special angle brackets with long holes. The angle brackets can be fitted to the sides of the units or on special supports. Please remember to position the long holes across the width of the worktop.

Where there are cut outs for sinks etc, the worktop should be supported transversely on both sides of the cutout. Here it may be necessary to fit a transverse batten or similar.

ScandiWood A/S Danmark · Mads Clausens Vej 11 · 9800 Hjørring · Telefon 98 90 11 00

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